Kim Jones Delivers a Sharper, More Masculine Vision for Dior Men at Paris Fashion Week
PARIS (AP) — At Dior Men’s show during Paris Fashion Week, a striking shift in aesthetic was evident as Kim Jones embraced a more structured, traditionally masculine approach to his designs. The event took place at the historic Ecole Militaire, with the Eiffel Tower casting a majestic backdrop, and was attended by high-profile celebrities like Kate Moss and Robert Pattinson, signaling a departure from Jones’ usual gender-fluid style.
Known for his innovative and gender-inclusive designs, Jones presented a collection that reflected a sharper, more masculine aesthetic, blending modern minimalism with classic structure. The venue’s minimalist staircase, descending onto the runway, set the tone for a collection rooted in Dior's mid-century heritage, particularly inspired by Christian Dior's iconic “Ligne H”—a post-war silhouette that simplified women’s fashion.
In this reinterpretation, Jones crafted clean, angular lines designed specifically for men, reinforcing a more traditionally masculine silhouette while maintaining a sense of refinement.
A Starry Front Row
The star-studded front row added to the allure of the event. Fashion icon Kate Moss captivated the cameras, embodying an ethereal goddess-like presence, while Robert Pattinson exuded his signature brooding charm. International celebrities such as Louis Garrel, Nam Joo-hyuk, and J Balvin brought further glamour to the show, with Gwendoline Christie making a powerful statement with her commanding stature.
Rising stars Apo Nattawin and Mile Phakphum were also spotted, highlighting Dior’s global influence and cultural reach.
The Collection: Minimalist, Masculine, and Couture
Jones presented a collection that juxtaposed precision with opulence. A standout piece—a black leather bomber—exemplified the minimalist sophistication underpinning the entire lineup. Tailored opera capes, drawn from Dior’s women’s couture archives, were reimagined with sharp, structured lines. Polished leather boots, adorned with satin bows, offered a playful couture twist to otherwise restrained looks.
The grand finale featured a striking pink robe inspired by Dior’s 1948 Pondichery haute couture collection, updated with intricate shimmering embroidery. Hybrid sneakers, embroidered with motifs from Dior’s 1961 archives, injected a youthful vibrancy into the collection.
Themes of Metamorphosis and Evolution
The collection was built around the theme of transformation, reflecting menswear’s journey from the ornate excesses of the 18th century to the functional refinement of the 19th century. Elements such as angular tailoring softened by satin bows, glass-bead embroidery, and chiaroscuro-inspired drapery embodied the duality central to Jones’ work.
A Shift in Tone
Insiders noted a distinct change in tone from previous seasons, with one remarking that the collection felt “sharper, more grounded.” There was speculation about whether this change was an artistic decision or influenced by Dior executives, but Jones’ ability to blend wearability with artistry continued to shine through in this collection.
Jones Reflects on His Inspiration
Jones himself explained that the influence of Dior's “Ligne H” was present from the outset. “It has elements that are graphic and angular, which felt eminently transferable into the men’s world,” he said. “While a lot refers to the history of fashion, this is not historical fashion. Ultimately, we wanted to say something about now.”
While Jones is known for his ability to reinterpret Dior's heritage for modern audiences, this collection struck a confident balance between honoring the past and embracing new, bold ideas. Still, the pivot to a more traditionally masculine aesthetic may prompt questions about whether this shift reflects Jones’ creative vision or external pressures to align Dior Men with more commercially familiar codes.